Sonoma White Wines That Surprised Me in 2025 (Beyond Chardonnay)
I'm surprised myself, honestly, but these Whites were the highlight of my 2025
It feels like everyone is reflecting on their year right now, what were the highlights, the lowlights, what will they take with them to 2026? But as I jumped on the bandwagon (I couldn’t resist!), I wanted to take a slightly different tack: what surprised me most?
Something became immediately clear, there wasn’t a single Pinot, Chardonnay, or Cabernet on my list. Not because they weren’t good, it’s just that in Sonoma they are of such high caliber across the board, that surprise is rare. Greatness, yes. Revelation, less so.
So as I whittled the list down, another revelation emerged: well over half the wines that I kept going back to were white.
So I leaned into it.
December may not feel like white wine season, but these are not poolside whites or aperitif-only bottles. They’re textured, food-driven, and quietly compelling — the kinds of wines that shine at the dinner table. Especially if, like our household, steak rarely makes an appearance and fish, seafood, chicken, and an endless rotation of colorful vegetables are what’s for dinner most nights.
And, because none of us are ever quite as trend-setting as we’d like to think, it’s worth noting: white wines have been quietly “having a moment” for a while now. In many regions, they’re one of the few bright spots for winemakers navigating a challenging market.
So if you’re craving something with a little more pizzazz, charm, and aromatic intrigue than your go-to Chardonnay (and, ahem, for much less $$$), here are the white wines that surprised me most this year, and that I hope to drink more of in the year ahead.
Any fun California whites you’d recommend? I’d love to hear!
Want more wineries like this? Explore the full Noteworthy Guide.
Muscat is usually served sweet, but when vinified dry it becomes something entirely different and entirely compelling. Ricci’s version is beautifully herbaceous, with notes that remind me of dill, parsley, and cilantro layered over bright citrus (grapefruit more than lemon). I first encountered dry Muscat in Sicily, where it’s known as Zibibbo, and it completely changed my perception of the grape. This bottle is tailor-made for an herby salad with a citrusy dressing, or really any dill-heavy Alison Roman recipe. (Ricci is also less than an hour from SF.)
Trousseau Gris — Jolie-Laide Wines
Somewhere between a white and a rosé, but more substantial than either. Think citrus peel rather than citrus juice, honeyed melon instead of just melon. It’s a wine that feels equally right on a rainy afternoon or alongside turkey or pork. And honestly, it’s beautiful all on its own. (And Jolie-Laide makes a myriad of unusual wines.)
“His” Skin-Contact Vermentino — Ryme Cellars
A bigger white with a touch of nuttiness that makes it incredibly food-friendly. I’m not typically drawn to skin-contact wines, but this one is handled with restraint and technical confidence, adding depth without veering into funk. At the tasting it was served with Point Rayes Toma, the paring of this stronger yet creamy cheese with the bit of nuttiness and tannin in the wine was a complete home run.
Las Cimas Fiano — Ryme Cellars
Bright and crisp, with the faintest note of toasted coconut. This paired shockingly well with Ottolenghi’s coconut and lime crusted fish, a reminder that the right white can elevate a dish rather than simply accompany it. (Ryme is also lovely off the beaten path stop near Occidental worthy of making a weekend of.)
Pinot Blanc — Talisman Wines
Sitting somewhere between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, this Pinot Blanc offers crisp acidity and lemony freshness alongside a hint of herbaceousness, rounded out by the slightest touch of creaminess. We paired it with octopus with a mojo verde sauce over white bean puree (an ambitious Christmas project of my borther-in-law), and it was one of those rare pairings where everything just clicked. (And you can make a whole weekend getaway through Sonoma Valley.)
Elimelech Cole Ranch Riesling — Ruth Lewandowski
I’ve been quietly collecting Cole Ranch Rieslings with the intention of hosting a comparative tasting one day (stay tuned). Cole Ranch is a minuscule AVA and one of the few places in California that produces Riesling at all. This bottling has a fascinating savory edge, almost reminiscent of flor in fino sherry, while still delivering classic Riesling florals. I haven’t paired it with food yet, but I’m saving it for a Spanish-y spread of olives, tinned fish and hard cheese.
So, Happy New Year, friends, thank you for reading. Here’s hoping 2026 brings you a few good surprises, and if it doesn’t, I highly recommend seeking them out. Rediscovering white wines this year has been a joy, and a reminder of just how much nuance, pleasure, and possibility is hiding in plain sight.
And as usual, full winery details below.
Ruth Lewandowski Wines
Raw, unmanipulated, and proudly rustic. Evan Lewandowski’s wines are the textbook definition of natural. He ferments with wild yeasts, skips the additives, and bottles without fining or filtration. Minimal intervention all the way. Expect field blends, quirky varietals, and a healthy dose of personality. If these wines had a persona, they’d be wearing vintage overalls and quoting Wendell Berry at a kombucha bar.
Tasting Experience
Evan recently opened his own tasting room at the opposite end of the block near Ryme Wines in Forestville, in what used to be Ryme’s storage space. Needless to say, it no longer looks like storage. Small, but with charm, it is a true hidden gem. Tastings come with appropriately unconventional snacks: think tinned fish, pickled things, and cheeses that probably have a name longer than the wine list.
Essentials
🍾💲 Median Bottle: $$ (<$40) | 📅💲 Tastings: $35+
Ryme
To prove that Sonoma isn’t just Chardonnay and Pinot, husband-and-wife team Ryan and Megan Glaab craft distinctive wines from rare Italian varietals and other unconventional grapes, all with a minimal-intervention approach. Think native yeasts, neutral oak, the occasional skin contact, and a decidedly old-world sensibility. The results are fresh, textural wines with moderate alcohol and plenty of personality. Their playful “His” and “Hers” Vermentino bottlings say it all: Hers is whole-cluster pressed and bottled early for brightness delivering fresh grapefruit, lemon and minerality, while His gets a skin-ferment and longer time in barrel, yielding depth and grip, notes of beeswax and citrus peel, and just begging for a nutty cheese.
Tasting Experience
The tasting room, housed in a historic Forestville building, is as relaxed as their wines. With rustic-chic charm, indoor-outdoor seating, and a welcoming vibe that extends to kids and dogs. Ideal for wine lovers who are serious, but like their tastings served with a side of approachability.
Essentials
Jolie-Laide
Jolie-Laide is a tiny, two-person operation run by winemaker Scott Schultz and his partner Jenny, producing about 3000 cases of wine per year under their own label. The name “Jolie-Laide” translates to “Pretty-Ugly,” a French term for unconventional beauty, fitting for a winery known for highly sought-after natural wines made with minimal intervention. Another unique aspect of Jolie-Laide is its artistic flair: the bottle labels change with every vintage, each year featuring different artwork or artists.
Tasting Experience
Tastings are held in the production space, it’s industrial but charming. Guests get an informal, intimate tasting often hosted by the winemaker. The winery also hosts special events and pop-up tastings throughout the year.
Essentials
🍾💲 Median Bottle: $$$ ($40-$70) | 📅💲 Tastings: $40+
Ricci Vineyards
Back in in 2000, Ricci Vineyards became the first commercial grower of St. Laurent: a spicy, dark-fruited Austrian grape that tastes like Pinot Noir and Syrah had a moody love child. This tiny operation also crafts a dry Muscat, sparkling Moscato, and a playful Pinot pet-nat that will definitely get you ready for summer.
Tasting Experience
The tasting room is the family’s lovingly renovated farmhouse on their long-owned vineyard (and they are currently building a second tasting room on the property). It’s not very formal, nor does it run on a specific schedule. Shoot them an email, and they’ll happily pour you something delicious. Expect low-key charm, beautiful Carneros views, and an unhurried intimate experience.
Essentials
🍾💲 Median Bottle: $$$ ($40-$70) | 📅💲 Tastings: Free (but, obviously, buy a bottle or two)
Talisman Wines
Talisman is for Pinot Noir geeks who care deeply about nuance, site, and restraint. The winery focuses on small-batch, single-vineyard Pinots that are elegant, balanced, and unmistakably expressive of where they come from, very much a Burgundian-leaning mindset that favors finesse over muscle. What adds an extra layer of fun are their experimental “Méthode Ancienne” bottlings, made using old-world foot treading to produce wines with a more rustic, structured edge.
Tasting Experience
Talisman’s downtown Glen Ellen tasting room is housed in the valley’s oldest commercial building. The cozy parlor is filled with personal touches from the owners, setting the tone for tastings that are intimate, thoughtful, and unpretentious. Flights focus squarely on Pinot Noir and vineyard expression, and if you’re feeling especially nerdy, the Blind “Mystery” Pinot Tasting or the “Ancient Method” comparative tasting is a must, the chance to taste both side by side is a real treat.
Essentials
🍾💲 Median Bottle: ($70-$100) | 📅💲 Tastings: $45+
Noteworthy is an independent, unsponsored guide to California’s most noteworthy wineries. If you enjoy these recommendations, you can explore the full guide of curated wineries on Noteworthy.wine.
Rootdown and Cobb both make awesome Cole Ranch Rieslings in case you're looking for some additional bottles for your tasting :)