Unique Varietals of Sonoma
When you want something other than a Pinot or a Chard...
I’m a big fan of beautiful Russian River Valley Pinots and a restrained Petaluma Gap Chardonnays, but as our wine rack grew heavy with the weight of Pinots, Chards and Cabs, I’ve found myself asking more and more for “anything unusual” whenever we go wine tasting. Given Sonoma’s diverse climate and the lack of Napa business pressure of making only-Cabs, winemakers in Sonoma are pushing the boundaries of (California) winemaking with their innovative approaches and dedication to showcasing lesser-known grapes.
So here are a few gems to try out.
Emmitt-Scorsone Wines: Italian Inspiration
Emmitt-Scorsone is the creation of winemakers Palmer Emmitt and Michael Scorsone. Michael has worked at elite wineries Schrader and Failla – and Emmitt-Scorsone even sources fruit from top vineyards like Beckstoffer To Kalon and Georges III for some of its wines. They produce wines under three distinct labels: Judge Palmer, Domenica Amato, and Emmitt-Scorsone. They are all great, but Domenica Amato, named after Michael's Sicilian grandmother, features Grenache and other Italian and Rhône varieties produced in an old-world, food-friendly style..
Tasting Overview: Tastings take place at the winery’s new downtown Healdsburg facility, often hosted personally by the winemakers, either outdoors in a garden overlooking the Russian River or inside the cellar, making for a relaxed and personalized tasting atmosphere.
Notable Varietals:
🥂White: Grenache Blanc, Cortese, Falanghina, Fiano – reflecting an emphasis on Rhône and Italian white varieties
🍷Red: Grenache, plus Italian reds such as Barbera and Sangiovese.
Other Essentials:
Jolie-Laide: Embracing the Beauty of Imperfection
Jolie-Laide is a tiny, two-person operation run by winemaker Scott Schultz and his partner Jenny, producing only ~500 cases of wine per year under their own label. The name “Jolie-Laide” translates to “Pretty-Ugly,” a French term for unconventional beauty – fitting for a winery known for highly sought-after natural wines made with minimal intervention. Another unique aspect of Jolie-Laide is its artistic flair: the bottle labels change with every vintage, each year featuring different artwork or artists.
Tasting Overview: Tastings are held in the production space, it’s industrial but charming. Guests get an informal, intimate tasting often hosted by the winemaker. The winery also hosts special events and pop-up tastings throughout the year.
Notable Varietals:
🥂White: Trousseau Gris, Aligoté, Scheurebe, and Melon de Bourgogne. They also produce skin-contact/“orange” wines from grapes like Pinot Gris and even a rare Sauvignon Gris.
🍷Red: Gamay Noir, Valdiguié, Trousseau Noir, Poulsard, and Cabernet Pfeffer, alongside more familiar varieties like Grenache and Syrah.
Other Essentials:
🍷📅✅Booking: Tock
🍾💲Median Bottle Price: $$$
VIVINO: 4.2
📍⭐: too few for now, go visit and leave a review!
Arnot-Roberts: Terroir-driven minimalist winemaking
Arnot-Roberts was founded by childhood friends Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Lee Roberts. This two-man operation built its reputation on producing distinctive, site-driven wines that express each vineyard’s unique terroir. They seek out exceptional vineyards across California – some historic, dry-farmed sites and even rare grape varieties – all farmed by passionate growers, in service of crafting honest, expressive single-vineyard wines. Nathan is a second-generation cooper (barrel-maker) and personally hand-builds all the French oak barrels used for aging their wines
They make beautiful Syrahs and Chablis-style Xhardonnays but they also have some fantastic lesser known varietals like Gamay, Trousseau, Falanghina and Ribolla Gialla.
Tasting Overview: Guests are hosted at an outdoor bar in the courtyard adjacent to the winery’s production facility in Healdsburg (not far from downtown). (Dress for the weather, as all tastings are outside.)
Notable Varietals:
🥂White: Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc as staples, as well as more unusual white grapes like Ribolla Gialla and Falanghina
🍷Red: Beyond the classic Pinot Noir, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon they work with Gamay Noir and Trousseau
Other Essentials: